Bike 2011: Denmark to Poland

So far, I have biked over 1000km and am having a break in a place called Szczecin [ʃtʃɛ'tʃɨn]. But first a little back-ground info.

In May I went for a warm-up tour from Copenhagen to a place called Soroe and north to Forvejle over Jagtspris and back to Copenhagen. The total tour was around 350km. It gave me a chance to test my bike and find out what I needed. After threee (3) punctures, I deceided, I need new tyres and tubes, that and after hitting a huge pot-hole, I needed to get a new back-wheel built. I have a new toy, a Garmin-Asus 'Nuevifone' that primarily acts as a GPS, removing the paper weight of 10000 maps. The problem is, using the GPS function to map my way drains the battery quickly. So, the solution was to buy a generator, that replaces my axel in my front wheel. To date, it does not prove successful at all - so today I wrote a letter to the suplliers/designers that are Australian. The final solutions I needed was a water-proof tent and a self-inflating comfortable matress.

When I arrived back to Copenhagen, everything was set into motion. got everything installed, the bike serviced and bought what I needed. Fintally I was prepared for my new tour: Nykoebing on Falster to Tromse in Norway, via Poland and the Baltic Countries.

01.06.11 Nykoebing on Falster to Moen (an Island in the south of Denmark - 66km (4:52)*
I took the train down to Nykoebing on Falster (there are three Nykoebings in Denmark) then rode east to the coast. I never thought Denmark had real beaches, apart from those I saw in north Jutland - but it does!I arrived at the ferry that would take me from the island of Falster to the island of Moen, just as the last ferry was leaving. Luckily, then man that was waving at me got the captain to turn around (well, reverse) and they picked me up. From here, I biked to my free camping place that over looked the town of Stege and the lake that stood between us. Here I chatted to some men, and heard about the experiences one of them had in Tromsoe when he worked and lived there for two years.

02.06.11 To Moen's Klint and up to Feddet - 76km (5:15)
I spent the morning biking to the most spectacular natural wonder of Denmark - Moen's Klint. It is white cliff faces that drop into toney beaches and blue water. It is like I am in the Whitsundays again. I then cut across the Island and took a bridge over to the island of Zealnd (Sjaelland) and headed to a free Nature Camping Place that was on the water's edge,

03.06.11 Feddet to Copenhagen - 98 (?)
This was a great ride along the coast. I met a nice lady that gave me tips while biking like, churches and other religious places usually have fresh water and toilets that are open. This part of the ride showed me that my generator or my Super-i-Cable that I bought for my GPS/mobile does not work. At least the weather was great. After arriving back in Copenhagen, I unpacked my things at my mate Simon's house and met up eith some friends at the annual four (4) day long open city festival called Distortion. Wednesday was in the city Centre, Tuesday in Noerrebro, Friday in Vesterbro and Saturday in another part of Vesterbro. What a party! But, because of my new regime, no drinking (but there were funny cookies) and I was in bed relatively early... ish...

04.06.11 Bike repairs and Distortion
The other thing I thought I would get done was to get a new seat for my bike. It is uncomfortable. The guy at the bike shop said that I should consider buying bike-pants... What? After two (2) bike tours I never thought of that and it is cheaper than buying a new seat. So I gave it a go. F*%$ what a difference it makes. It is now number one on my must-have lists when doing bike tours. Get padded bike pants - they are a must have. After a morning of getting truely final things done, I got my self together and met up with the girls at boys at Distortion.

05.06.11 Chill out
I spent the entire day with mates hanging out at my favourite place, Christiania. Backgammon was on the cards - as per usual.

06.06.11 Copenhagen to Monkrey - 64km (3:36)
The Instead of biking along the coast, I decided to cut through the guts of northern Zealand to the coast. So after an entire morning of pre and procrastination ending with meeting my mate Sof and hanging out, I got on me bike an took off. I arrived to my free camping site just before the storm hit. It was close. Lightning - not even a second later thunder. It was exhilerating (and a little scary).

This is a link to pictures from this part of the trip: Bike 2011, part 1: Last days in Denmark
This is a link to my hand-standing pictures
This is a link to my maps so
far

So it continues - but this time I get to practice my Swedish. That right - Swedish. :-)

07.06.11 Monkery in Denmark to Malmoe in Sweden- 102km (6:08)
After a nightt of storms and a good sleep, I headed along the coast to take teh ferry from Helsingoer in Denmark to Helsingborg in Sweden. These two cities used to battle it out over who ruled the kingdom. I then headed south along the coast to Malmoe through onld towns and rolling hills. I met up with my friend Kristina and had a nice relaxing afternoon.

08.06.11 In and around Malmoe
Kristina had the day off, so after a nice morning gaoing around Vesthamnen (the West Harbour), we met up with another friend Pegah and went south. We went to a beach to grill, which is the same as having a BBQ, but different. Although it was cloud and windy, and sand got into everything, it was enjoyable. Then we went east to a place called Kalkstene (the Calc-Stone), which is a water-hole near Dalby ('Dal' means valley and 'by' means town). Here we set-up a grill again, and while it was heating, I decided to follow a crazy Swedish guy and jump of the little cliffs into the freezing cold water. After we (Pegah, Kristina and I, joined with the three guys we just met: Anton, Magnus and Henrik) had whole grilled bananas with melted chocolate and played soccer in the forrest. Then we headed to Lund and hang out playing a crazy Chinese game, listening to music and making sure we kept warm with warm-green-jackets. :-)

09.06.11 Malmoe to Ystad and over to Bornholm (Denmark) - 112km (6:48)
This part of my trip now has concluded my three (3) bike journey along the west coast of Sweden. I highly recommend that you check out this part of the world, if you are ever here. A bit of a side track, but the part from Gothenberg to Falkonberg is the best. When I arrived in Ystad, I decided to go on a tour around the city, while I waited for the ferry. Then I too the boat to Roenne on Bornholm and biked to my free Nature Camping Place in the forrest for the night.

This is a link to pictures from this part of the trip: Bike 2011, part 2: Sweden
This is a link to my hand-standing pictures
This is a link to my maps so
far

Nait

Before i head out today, I will give you all a run down on what happened on Bornholm and in Germany.

10.06.11 Hasle (Bornholm, Denmark - where I camped) to Gudhjem - 22km (1:36)
This was a small bike ride, but I was pressed for time. I had to get to Gudhjem (on the other side of the island) in order to get a ferry across to a little island called Christiansoe and its sister island Frederiksoe. The ride was the first part of the trip that had steep hills in succession, so it was a nice work out - like an indoor biking class. On the way I went through a nice forest that had a cliff face. I stopped at a petrol station to fuel up on food and to buy things for the overight stay on Christiansoe. On the map there is a tent symbol that resembles a free tent site, which cannot be confused with the paid camping site symbol. So I made it to the ferry and found out I cannot take my bike over. I took with me only the essentials - tent, sleeping stuff, kitchen and food. The arrival was spectacular - a fortress in the middle of the Baltic Sea that would be around 1km x 700m in size. The rock had been quarried to make the wall that surrounds the island. Christiansoe was once a place of residence with a school, church and administration unit. Frederiksoe was originally a penitentiary, I set up my tent, hung out clothes that needed air ate some nice cookies and headed on a journey around the island taking photos with my SLR. I met many Polish people, who tired to teach me a little Polish. Then I went to Frederiksoe and looked out to another island that is inhabited only by thousands of seagulls. After a nice walk in the sun, I cooked dinner and settled down planning my trip and reading 'Doppler' written by a Norwegian author, but is in Danish. Later came a lady who then proceeded to tell me I must pay to stay here. I exclaimed that on the map it is consistent with the rest of Europe that the symbol indicates a free camping place. No. It turns out it is a camping place that people must pay for and they supply a kitchen also. Alas, there is a kitchen. 110Danish Kroner. but I have no money on me, can you take card? No she cannot, but then I am requested to take money out at the shop, but they do not take my card. She said she would organise something for the next day. What a downer to a beautiful day...

11.06.11 Gudhjem to near Nexoe (where I met up with Mathilde and her mum) - 32km (2:12)
The next morning, the lady and her family pounced on me, trying to make me pay as quick as possible - I was suffocated, which compounded to an unpleasant experience. I would have only done a day trip if I had know this would occur. Then I took the boat back to Gudhjem, stocked up on food and biked along the scenic coast of Bornholm south-east to near Nexoe, where I met up with Mathilde, her son and her mum. I set up my tent and we grilled as the sun slowly went to bed.

12.06.11 near Nexoe til Allinge (where Mathilde's grandma lives) - 45km (3:12)
Mathilde invited me to come up to Allinge and camp at her Grandma's house. Done. I biked through the heart of the island through the forests, stopping at a little town call Aarkirkeby where I found wi-fi (wireless internet) which I used to upload pictures and maps to FaceBook. I got to the coast after a town called Roe. Was a site. the northern coast line of the island is the bet by far. I followed the coast to Allinge. After setting up my tent and eating a huge dinner that Mathilde's Grandma made, Mathilde and I went on a walking tour. She grew up on Bornholm so she showed me everything from her home town of Allinge along the coast to Hammershavn, where one can see the old fortress across the harbour called Hammershuset, Along the way we went past a huge old quarry that now is a water-hole where the silhouette of the rock looks like a huge dinosaur. We ate icecrea - almost everyday I eat icecrea. 1. it is summer. 2. I am biking everyday. :-)

13.06.11 Allinge to my camping place south-east of Roenne - 41km (3:14)
The logistics of getting from Bornholm to either Poland or Germany was a big difficult. Which boat to take. I originally though I could take the boat to Kolobrez in Poland, but that would mean I would have to wait on the island another day - and with the small amount of kilometres I have been covering, I have been having itchy feet. So, I decided I would take an early morning (7:30am) boat to Sassnitz on the island of Ruegen that is a part of Germany. So from Allinge, I rode along the coast, again, this is the most beautiful part of the island. Then I spent the midday period in Roenne, ate ice cream, found wi-fi and relaxed before heading to Arnager. Here is where I stayed at a free Nature Camping Place. I went down to the beach, got my kit off and laid in the sun. What a view and what a way to say 'good-bye' to Denamark.

14.06.11 Arnager to Roenne and from Sassnitz harbour to Sassnitz and south over to mainland Germany - 70km (4:52)
I made it safely to the boat. 3.5 hours later - Germany! I rode north to Sassnitz to check it out, before heading to Binz. This is a spectacular sea-side town. Beautiful beaches, a long ever stretching promenade and 10 000 tourists! I had lunch in the sun before heading south to Potsbus. The two places on Ruegen that I recommend are Binz and Potsbus. The Architecture and design are fantastic. There is a gelling of nature and town. Along the way I met a few people and chatted, but it was not before I got to mainland Germany that I had a great conversation with a group of people. I tried to find a place I could camp, without paying for a camping site which would cost around 12Euro. Nej tak! Finally I decided I would bike along the coast and camp under the stars - no tent. After dinner a swarm, not a flock, a swarm of birds flew backward and forth in spectacular coordinated formation. The corkscrews were amazing. The backdrop a red sunset and the Baltic Sea lined with reeds. Wow!

15.06.11 my 'camping' place through Riems and Greifwald to the island near Swinoujsce - 100km (8:07)
This was a great ride. I got up relatively early. Protected my my mosquito net over my head, I had no bites.
I bike through the forest to Riems where I met a lady who told me about how her husband came from here and they had to flee to West Germany and 20 years later, he could come back after the collapse of the DDR regime. Then I headed to Greifwald where I found a Cafe (Caspar Cafe), used the wi-fi, had a coffee, charged my phone and headed along the coastal trail (Baltic Sea Trail) to Wolgast. I thought this was a nice little town. At the petrol station I met Dirk, a motor mechanic for boats. We chatted about life, philosophies and my reasons for doing the bike trip. He was fascinated with my trip. In exchange fro an e-mail at the end of the trip to explain what I have done and how it all went, he gave me 50 Euro. I tried not to take it but he kept insisting. What an unexpected gesture. I then headed across to the island that would connect Germany with Poland along the Baltic Coast. The towns are like Vegas. The hotels unbelievable, the design bigger than life. I went along the coast until the sun was almost down and found a camping site, whose showers wree open. I bought a few shower tokens of a random man, had a shower, and cooked dinner as I chatted with two Berliners. I then went to the beach, where I met the man I bought the tokens of and his friend. We all wanted to see the eclipse that occurs once every 30 years, but the cloud cover made it impossible. So, they gave me a bloody mary and we chatted about the politics of Europe. Later, I rolled out my swag and camped under the stars in a very noisy camping site (free - he he)

This is a link to pictures from this part of the trip: Bike 2011: Bornholm
This is a link to pictures from this part of the trip: Bike 2011: Germany
This is a link to my hand-standing pictures
This is a link to my maps so far

Nat

16.06.11 to Stepnica via Swinouscie - 82km (8:00)It was 4:30am-ish when I woke. The camping site that I crashed in was full of drunk loud Germans that kept me awake all night. It begain to rain a little, because I was camping under the stars and the sun was up early, I decided to start pedaling. I noticed that my left eye was sore, and it hurt to move around. I put it down to 3.5 hours sleep or something crawled into it as I slept.

On the way to the Polish border I stopped along the coast to look out to the gold sunrise and at breakfast to the sounds of small wave breaking on the beaches through the woods. The Polish border came soon after breakfast. WELCOME TO POLAND NAIT!!! Was written in the sky! To the left a taxi rank ful of awaiting cabs, some little shops and a make-shift market selling fresh fruit and vegies next to a van selling almost the same products out of it. To the right, 6 or 8 horse drawn carrages.

I asked a local to take a photo of me doing a handstand infront of the signs welcoming people to Poland. After a short break I headed into Swinouscie where I immediately begain asking locals questions in Polish. Sometimes people looked at me as if I was a stalk of celery speaking, some as if I wanted to steal their kidneys, but the majory simply smiled and pointed a direction and begain a long speal about something to which i simply responded "tak... tak... tak...", nodding in complete amazement of how much Polish seem to speak in response to a small question.

After a bike ride around Swinouscie I took the ferry over to Warsa and headed to the barrocks and light-house that are nearby. There after I continued a sleepy journey east heading towards Wolin. I tried to sleep in a mosquito filled park, then again in a open green area in the centre of Wolin. I woke tired and my eye still sore. So after a visit to the local museum, I rode south towards Szczecin and decided to stop at Stepnica to camp for the night.

I stopped to chat to a local that was clipping hedges with a mate. Melik lives 6 months a year in Germany working as a tradesman and the other 6 months in Stepnica building his house and maintaining his small farm and two cod ponds. He insisted that I camp in his yard and not pay for a camping site. A sudden thunder storm hit that reminded me of the summers in Brissy. Afterwards we had a beer and chatted in German about life in Poland.

17.06.11 from Stepnica to Szczecin - 57km (3:37)
After a lazy morning chatting with Melik, I headed south towards Szczecin. More rested, but still with an irritated eye. On the road to Szczecin I stopped at Golienow where I met a crazy homless man who I chatted German with. It was an interesting conversation that was destroyed when he tried to get me to by him a beer.

The roads that lead to Szczecin are not bike friendly. I had to zig-zag between motorways and main roads, trying to get to the centre. I finally made it and found the information centre. I chatted with the girls and found that the logo for Szczecin is actually the phonetic transcription of the city name. Because of this, I decided to stay for a few nights ... becides I needed a break, my leags were tired.

I went to the hostel to check in, but the rooms were booked due to a soccer tournament in Szczecin that was between several eastern European high schools. Lithuania and Poland were at my hostel of choice. I negotiated a camping place in the garden and a place for my things in a lockable room. Afterwards I went for a big walk around the city, met a random man that studies the theology of English and hunted a special snack that is only found in Szczecin.

Pasztecik (pronounced something like pash-te-tsik) is a donought like log that is fried with either cheese, meat or chicken inside. It is a bit too oily and not at all flavoursome and one is definately enough. None the less, it is probably just as bad as all the other fast food options. The night concluded with a visit to the local shopping complex watching the new X-Men movie. Chowing down on all junk food I could get a hold of.

18.06.11 a day of rest in Szczecin
The morning was another bout of sightseeing and a little interneting. I went to the main train station to go on two tours. The first at 12pm was about the Second World War. The focus was not only about the original structure of the city before the Brits destroyed everything in excessive air raids, but also about the underground tunnels and bomb shelters that were used not only to protect the people of the city, but those on the side of the Germans too. The 1pm tour followed on the history of the tunnels and bomb shelters with a focus on the Cold War, the Russians the the Nuclear threat in Szczecin. Both tours were in Polish, which was a great experience. I did have large flash cards in Polish-English.

After the tours, a mother and daughter air took time out of their day to take me to the castle and point out a few sights. The castle was alive with activity. A viking festival was in progress. I then continued a walking tour around the city found some really great pizza and tired the Pasztecik again, just to make sure.

19.06.11 another day of rest in Szczecin
Today I woke with more of a head ache and my eye still sore. Picture that you are looking out a window. Take your little finger and make a mark on the window on the window just left of the middle of your vision. This was the first visual impairment I noticed.

So I took the entire morning to find the hospital, that was just around the corner. Okay, so it was a small walk. But no one could speak English and they sent me with a mother and son in their private car to the other hospital on the south side of the city. Her I went to the eye clinic where my doctor spoke only broken German. The symptoms presented themselves as what she thought was conjuncatavitis. So I went to the chemist and got antibiotic eyedrops, downed some ibuprofin and went on a huge walking tour around Szczecin, chatted to Hanne and headed back to the hostel to do some e-mails and internetty stuff.

Next Parts are coming soon. :-)

This is a link to pictures from this part of the trip: Bike 2011: Poland along the river Odra
This is a link to my hand-standing pictures

Poland awaits!

20.06.11 leaving Szczecin heading south to Mieszkowice - 100km (7:19)The first town I wanted to visit is just south of Szczecin called Gryfino. The only reason I wanted to visit this town is the receptionist at the hostel lives here. He was so nice an helpful that I thought I would like to see where he comes from. I rocked up and parked by the river Odra and had lunch. I had one of those realisation moments. As I was taking out my tea-bag from my zip-lock bag, getting the thermos out and unpacking my very practical lunch-dinner pack, I reflected on the similarities between my Dad and I in a practical sense.

After lunch I rode through Gryfino. Pulling up at an intersection I heard the break of an egg on the road. Some freaking prick tried to throw an egg at me! Bastards! I'm not German, leave me alone!!! I only could laugh, because they had no aim and I thought perhaps I should see how many medals Poland wins during the Olympics for ball sports.

To this point I have been riding along main roads. The cars and trucks drive around 50 to 90km/hr. The larger main roads have a 2m shoulder that makes it easier to ride along. The smaller main roads have a shoulder of 0cm to 30cm. From Szczecin, this latter was the common. After a scare or two I decided to bike along the back roads. The back roads are not tarmac, nor solid surfaces. More often than not, they are sand, grass, swamp, rock, well you get the idea.

I took the back roads around to an old medieval town called Choja (pronounced something like Hoi-ya). This was recommended to me by Milek from Stepnica's friend. The town has an old city wall, a few old gates, an old catherdral and other historic points. After the wars, Germany sponsered the reperation of the city.

Just south of Choja is Mieszkowice (pronounced something like Me-esh-kov-itse). The town is engulfed in its original old city wall and paved with coble stones that lead to the central main plaza. I tried to find a place to camp. Locals pointed me to a local petrol station. At this stage my broken Polish (if you could even call it that) and their equivalent of German was succeeding. Eventually I found my camping site, just out side a petrol station come wrecking yard, where my bike was locked away, protected by two big alsations (however that is spelt).

21.06.11 Mieszkowice to Cybinka - 68km (4:28)
This part of the journey was suprisingly quick, considering the amount off-road there was towards the end. Initially I rode to Kostryn, stopping 9km north at a little town to eat the best backery food bought in a little shop. Kostryn itself was nothing to cheer about and the road to Slubice and Frankfurt an der Oder was rolling, up and down and a little long. At this stage my vision was being impared and I was being patient for the anti-biotics to kick it. But I upped the dose and kept pushing on.

Frankfurt was a nice city, but I was tired and wanted to get to Zielona Gora to meet Kara. After Frankfurt there were a few scary insidences with trucks, so I went off road all the way to Cybinka where a priest directed me to a place to camp. An older woman come out asking what I am doing and wanted to see my pass. Suprisingly I undertood most of what she wanted and was asking, but I had no idea how to respond. After setting up camp, she offered me food and to lock my bike in a secure place and gave me a key to access it. I made dinner, attended to my eye and slept under heavy rain.

22.06.11 Cybinka to Zielona Gora - 67km (4:28)
Rodzie (the lady that I spoke with yesterday) took me in for breakfast. Just like the Man Down Under - with out a Vegemite Sandwich. She offered me a buffet of Polish foods. we spoke about life and what is on the table. It was more of a one sided conversation, but I enjoyed every minute with her. She gave me money for bread, which she insisted in taking three times, which is the custom in Poland, so I took it.

With my vision reducing, I took back roads all the time. I made it to Kostra Odrzadina, where I spoke with Mum and she convinced me to see a Doctor in Zielona Gora. When I was in Szczecin I organised my first CouchSurfing host in Zielona Gora - Karoline. I sent her SMSes about my progress and how I needed to see a doctor. I came to her house, she fed me, gave me a shower, we chatted about travels and a bit on life philosophies before heading to an optomatrist.

WOW - what an experience my stark raving mad overly expressive some-what crazy optomatrst was. She rattled not only me but also Kara, the native Pole. She looked at my eye and saw major swelling in the optic nerve and retina. So we went to the Opthamologist at the hsopital who was occupied. Instead Kara organised an immediate appointment with her friend's mother who is a neurologist. Initially the symptoms plus slightly assymetric reflex resposes triggered some concerns, so she ordered an MRI and blood screen. We headed to the MRI place. It was booked and tomorrow was a church holiday. This is a political debate in Poland. Everyone wants to know why they have such a "stupid" holiday that hinders everything. So we booked a time for the MRI on Friday.

We headed to the hospital, at this stage we missed our "bad taste" party that we were invited to. I had a nice lined hideous long nighty with a pink wig that Kara gave me to borrow. At the hospital the doctor immediately begain work trying to control the swelling, steroids, atrophine and antibiotics injected behind the eye. It all started here - or should I say Bike 2011 potentially ends here.

I only cycled about 1300km of my estimated 6000km journey. Barely scrapped the surface of Poland. Now I hope I have the oppotunity to get back to Poland to continue.

This is a link to pictures from this part of the trip: Bike 2011: Poland along the river Odra
This is a link to my hand-standing picturesThis is a link to my maps so far